Smoked Mackerels Sydney Embracing Sustainability and Creativity in Fish Cooking

Introduction

This article explores the innovative approach of Josh Niland, known as the king of gill-to-fin cooking, and how he has revolutionized the fish industry in Sydney. By embracing sustainability and creativity, Niland has not only made his business more profitable but has also sparked a change in the way people think about fish. From fear of failure to becoming a renowned chef, Niland’s journey is an inspiration to all aspiring entrepreneurs and food enthusiasts.

Embracing Sustainability – The Fear that Led to Success

A Sustainable Approach to Fish Consumption

Josh Niland’s journey began with the fear of his fledgling business failing. To make the most of what he had, he decided to take a closer look at his resources. What he had was fish, and he realized that using the whole fish instead of just the fillet not only made business sense but was also more sustainable. He saw an opportunity in minimizing waste and maximizing the potential of each fish.

Redefining the Western Approach to Fish Consumption

Niland realized that the Western approach to fish consumption had always been focused on consuming the fillet, leaving behind a significant portion of the fish as waste. He wanted to change this perception and show that every part of the fish can be used and enjoyed. By treating fish like meat and developing recipes for almost every part, including the liver, eyes, and scales, Niland made the sundries of a fish as desirable as the primary cuts. This approach not only reduced waste but also expanded the culinary possibilities of fish.

Tackling Australia’s Fish Waste Problem

Despite being surrounded by water, Australia imports about 70% of the fish it consumes, and two-thirds of the fish Australians eat is thrown away. Niland aims to tackle this issue by encouraging people to buy good-quality fish and make the most of it. By using around 90% of each fish and developing recipes for every part, Niland sets an example for sustainable fish consumption. His efforts not only reduce waste but also promote the use of local, sustainably sourced fish.

The Art of Dry-Aging Fish

From Mistake to Innovation

Niland’s innovative approach to dry-aging fish began with a mistake. While working at a restaurant, he forgot to put plastic wrap over a fish, and the cool-room fan dried it out. Instead of discarding the fish, Niland decided to use it, and it turned out to be the best fish he had ever cooked. This experience made him question the traditional method of cooking fish and led him to develop his own technique of dry-aging fish.

Dry-Aging for Better Flavor and Texture

Niland’s dry-aging method involves hanging the fish whole and unwashed on hooks in a cool room, allowing it to slowly lose moisture over several days. This process enhances the flavor and texture of the fish, making it more delicious and tender. While many top restaurants discard fish that is not fresh enough, Niland believes that deliciousness is more important than freshness. By dry-aging fish, he ensures that each fish is served in excellent condition, reducing waste and maximizing the potential of every fish.

From Saint Peter to a Growing Fish Empire

The Success of Saint Peter

Saint Peter, Niland’s flagship restaurant in Paddington, Sydney, has gained recognition for its sustainable and creative approach to fish cooking. The restaurant serves a regularly changing, seven-course tasting menu featuring sustainably sourced Australian fish and seafood. Dishes like salt & vinegar King George whiting and Southern calamari & yellowfin tuna ’nduja showcase Niland’s innovative recipes and techniques.

Expanding the Piscine Businesses

Since opening Saint Peter, Niland and his wife Julie have expanded their ventures in the fish industry. They have added two Fish Butchery fish shops, a la carte restaurant Peterman, and takeaway Charcoal Fish to their roster of businesses, all located in Sydney. Each business focuses on utilizing every part of the fish in the right context, ensuring that nothing goes to waste. Niland’s aim is not to build a fish empire but to create a circular system where each part of the fish is used effectively.

The Whole Fish Cookbook – A Global Recognition

Niland gained global attention when he published his first book, The Whole Fish Cookbook, in 2019. The book not only serves as a manual for fish butchery, storage, and curing but also features innovative recipes using little-used native Australian ingredients. It won two James Beard Awards and established Niland as a leading figure in the sustainable fish cooking movement. His second book further solidified his reputation and showcased his continued commitment to sustainability and creativity in the kitchen.

Conclusion

Josh Niland’s journey from fear of failure to becoming the king of gill-to-fin cooking is a testament to the power of embracing sustainability and creativity. By using the whole fish and developing recipes for every part, Niland has not only reduced waste but has also expanded the culinary possibilities of fish. His innovative approach to dry-aging fish and his growing clutch of businesses have set an example for the fish industry in Sydney and beyond. Through his efforts, Niland hopes to change the way people think about fish and encourage them to embrace a more sustainable and creative approach to cooking.