Russian Frozen Dumplings Melbourne
Russian frozen dumplings Melbourne

In a surprising turn of events, beloved Fitzroy bakery cafe Babka has changed hands for the first time since opening its doors in 1993. Founder Sasha Lewis has decided to sell the Melbourne institution to Chris Messinis, an experienced hospitality professional. Despite the change in ownership, Messinis promises to maintain the essence of Babka and not make any drastic changes. This article will delve into the details of this transition and explore the history and significance of Babka in Melbourne’s cafe scene.

The Legacy of Babka

Babka, located on Brunswick Street, has been a long-running staple of Fitzroy’s cafe scene. Founded by Sasha Lewis, along with her friend Frieda Ezard and son Niko Lewis, Babka quickly became a beloved spot for locals and visitors alike. Lewis, now 75 years old, has decided to step back from the business and focus on other interests, such as taking care of her orchids. She reflects on her 30 years at the cafe, stating that it has been a rewarding experience but she is ready to pass on the torch.

Babka has become an institution in Melbourne, attracting successive generations of food enthusiasts. Playwright Hannie Rayson reminisces about her early days at the cafe, recalling bowls of borscht, fresh dill, and slices of casalinga bread. She also fondly remembers the citrusy pancakes with cumquat syrup and the extravagant flower arrangements that adorned the cafe. Babka has left an indelible mark on many people, including playwright and novelist Joanna Murray-Smith, who praises the Russian flavors, delicious bread, and magnificent cakes that have become synonymous with the cafe.

A Unique Blend of European Heritage

Babka’s menu has always been a reflection of the founders’ European heritage. With Frieda being Dutch and Sasha having Russian, Czech, and Ukrainian roots, the cafe’s offerings have always had a distinct flavor. From the beginning, the trio worked together to build the cafe’s reputation, with Frieda in the kitchen, Sasha creating desserts, and Niko playing a crucial role in the bakery’s bread production. This collaborative effort resulted in a cafe that stood out from the rest, defying stereotypes and offering a unique experience to its patrons.

The New Owner and His Vision

Chris Messinis, the new owner of Babka, brings a wealth of experience to the table. Having worked in bakeries in Vienna and Zurich, as well as Melbourne establishments like Laurent Bakery and Koko Black chocolates, Messinis is no stranger to the hospitality industry. He had always dreamed of owning a unique business, and the opportunity to purchase Babka was a dream come true. Messinis assures the loyal customers and staff that he has no plans to make any drastic changes. He aims to preserve the legacy of Babka and continue running it in the best possible way.

The Architectural Marvel

Babka’s original design was created by up-and-coming architects Philip Goad and Michael Fink. Their mission was to gently refurbish the existing shop, adding a touch of Amsterdam-inspired charm. The result was a warm and inviting space, adorned with marble, glass, and brass elements. The entryway featured a cabinet filled with jam jars, setting the tone for the entire cafe. Goad, who is now a professor of architecture at the University of Melbourne, has been a regular at Babka since its inception, appreciating the cafe’s evolution over the years.

A Haven for Food Enthusiasts

Babka has become an institution in Melbourne, attracting successive generations of food enthusiasts. Playwright Hannie Rayson reminisces about her early days at the cafe, recalling bowls of borscht, fresh dill, and slices of casalinga bread. She also fondly remembers the citrusy pancakes with cumquat syrup and the extravagant flower arrangements that adorned the cafe. Babka has left an indelible mark on many people, including playwright and novelist Joanna Murray-Smith, who praises the Russian flavors, delicious bread, and magnificent cakes that have become synonymous with the cafe.

A Training Ground for Bakers

Over the years, Babka has played a significant role in training bread makers. Notable bakers like Tony Dench and Daniel Chirico have worked at Babka before going on to establish their own successful bread brands. Dench, who worked at Babka in the late 1990s, highlights the cafe’s bustling atmosphere and the long queues of customers eager to taste their signature lemon tarts. Babka’s combination of a bakery and cafe under one roof has inspired others in the industry, with Dench himself adopting a similar business model.

A Trailblazer in Smoking Ban

Babka was ahead of its time when it came to implementing a smoking ban. Even before the statewide ban on smoking in food establishments came into effect in 2001, Babka took the initiative to prohibit smoking within its premises. Sasha Lewis recalls their decision to remove ashtrays and inform customers that smoking was no longer allowed inside. This bold move was well-received by customers, further cementing Babka’s reputation as an innovative and customer-centric establishment.

A Glorious Testament to Heart and Success

Playwright Joanna Murray-Smith describes Babka as an original that has stood the test of time. The cafe’s Russian flavors, delicious bread, and magnificent cakes have remained at the core of the Babka experience. Murray-Smith also mentions the all-female wait staff and Sasha Lewis herself, who exudes a warm and nurturing presence. In a world of uncertainty, Babka has remained a beacon of success that originated from the heart and continues to thrive because of it.

In conclusion, the change in ownership at Babka marks a new chapter in the cafe’s illustrious history. Chris Messinis, the new owner, is committed to preserving the essence of Babka and continuing its legacy. Babka’s unique blend of European heritage, architectural charm, and delectable offerings have made it a beloved institution in Melbourne’s cafe scene. As the cafe enters this new era, it is sure to continue captivating the hearts and taste buds of its loyal patrons.

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